BASF: Shadownyl™ – A dual approach to light up the

Eye contour wrinkles and dark circles formation

One of the causes of the formation of dark circles is blood leakage into the dermis and epidermis, linked to breaking of small fragile blood vessels present in the eye area. Degradation of leaked blood cells leads to the release of pigmented degradation products such as heme, which accumulates in the dermis and epidermis and is responsible for the violet coloration that shows through the skin under the eye and is commonly called “dark circles”. Additional consequences of free heme release within the skin are the production of free radicals and the skin’s inflammatory response, which leads to fine lines and wrinkles formation. Therefore scavenging and disposal of free heme is critical.

Shadownyl™, the eye contour luminizer

Shadownyl™ is a water extract of Fucus vesiculosus, which utilizes a novel biological pathway targeting heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), an enzyme involved in the reduction of free heme content in the skin – a major cause of dark circle formation. In addition, the enzyme was shown to exhibit antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory properties, helping thereby to preserve the skin cells and may also contribute to counteract the dark circle formation process, the company stated. Finally, Shadownyl™ showed very good in vitro results for collagen type-1 stimulation activity, which may lead to a skin re-plumping effect.

Clinically proven efficacy

Two clinical studies were conducted on 27 and 22 volunteers respectively with Shadownyl™ incorporated at 2 % in an eye cream formulation. Both studies highlighted Shadownyl’s ability to visibly decrease the coloration associated with dark circles across the eye contour area in just a two week regiment, the company pointed out. Finally, in just a one week treatment, the product demonstrated a three-dimensional anti-wrinkle effect – acting simultaneously on three key parameters. According to the company, Shadownyl™ was able to reduce wrinkle length, surface and volume in comparison with the placebo eye cream.

Comments Tony Jaillot, BASF Beauty Creations Global Marketing Director: ”The delicate skin of the contour of the eye is extremely thin – becoming even thinner with age – which makes it subject to unsightly age-related changes in appearance, including the formation of dark circles and wrinkles around the eyes. With Shadownyl™, Beauty Creations is now offering a dual approach to revive the contour of the eye in a comprehensive and efficient manner while addressing the key corrective actions of this area: reduction of dark circles and crow’s feet wrinkles for a youthful and revitalized look. Shadownyl™ offers perfect skin tolerance and perfectly fulfills market demands for potent eye contour care products offering, revitalizing as well as brightening benefits, all at once.”

According to the company, the extract is obtained from renewable, highest quality, marine based vegetal raw material Fucus vesiculosus, which is a certified organic material with all its components listed in “International Cosmetic ingredient standard Chinese name" (2007 & 2010) as well as the Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China (IECIC, 2012).

Technical data summary
Shadownyl™ R11026

• INCI name: Water (and) Algae Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol
  (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum
• Aspect: Reddish/Brown – Brown
• Dose of use: 2.0 % (recommended)