Shape, style and colour of the lips in the mirror of history

1920 - prohibition and rebellion

A silk finish heart-shaped mouth is the expression for the attractive and coquettish look of the golden twenties. Women emancipate, go out in the night, drink Whiskey and dance the Charleston. Black and white movies present the mouth in its most ventured out style – the cupid bow by Clara Bow, the vamp lips of Theda Bara and the “bee-sting” of Mae Murray. Lip colours are black and garnet red.

1930 – period of economic depression

It’s the time of a perfectionist strong look – its the time of a mouth with angular edges – it’s the time of deprivation and parsimony. Women like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich are the idols. Their steely, androgynous appearance personifies the adult woman. Lip colour is a silky- glossy puce.

1940 - wartime

A full and symmetrically styled mouth represents the brave and self-conscious look of the 40s which were full of privations. Men are warring and women hold the fort.
Movie stars from Hollywood like Rita Hayworth, Joan Crawford, Bette Davis and Katherine Hepburn reflect the new sentiment of own strength. The lipstick becomes an instrument of individual ethics which demonstrates strength and covers sorrow. Lip colour is vermilion.

1950 – the postwar period

Now, a mouth styled opulently reflects this reconstruction period. It’s a feminine and slinky look which shows the ambivalence of women. They fight for the independency achieved during the war and against the classical role of women on the one side, on the other side they long for being female. Therefore, two opposed characters are the idols of this period: feminine Marylin Monroe and boyish Audrey Hepburn. Lip colours are bright red and pink.

1960 – time of extreme

A full and soft pout represents the hippie look of the rebellious 60s. This period is dominated by the discovery of the moon and outer space, the sexual revolution, Woodstock and “flower power”. The anorexic chic of Twiggy and the provoking pout of Brigitte Bardot are the symbols of denegation of global beauty, prosperity and consumption. Therefore – lipstick yes, but unobtrusive, almost invisible. The lip colours during that time are shimmery beige, baby pink and silver / white.

1970 – it´s disco time

An outlined shiny mouth gives the disco look of the 70s its iridescently appearance. Saturday Night Fever, Studio 54, Bhagwan, joss sticks and coloured soul singers like Gloria Gaynor and Diana Ross are dominating this decade. Women test emancipation, study, cohabit and they are single mothers. Lip colours are self-confident like flashy crimson and burgundy.

1980 – the period of punk

A dark and broad mouth represents the provocative look of punk in the 80s. Women don´t want to be objects of sex for men any longer - punk is the first Anti-Beauty-Movement. The Der style of Boy George and the fashion of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm MacLaren signalise “clanship”. Emancipated women like pop singer Madonna become idols. Lip colours are dark up to black with metallic effect.

1990 – time of individualism

A natural coloured mouth, shiny or pearl documents the individual look of the 90s. Internet, mobile phones, piercings, a „fun society“, tattoos, HipHop, Techno and Fitness determine this decade of commerce. Fashion is affected by always faster changes – everything is allowed. Julia Roberts, Meg Ryan, Demi Moore and Britney Spears – the stars of this period. Brown as lip colour undergoes a revival, however, every lip colour from dark to light is in great demand.

2000 – the new millennium

Cocooning“ is the buzzword for the transition into the new millennium – it express´ a return to intrinsic values, friends and family. A harmony which does not stop at lip fashion. The mouth has a natural style. Natural, soft colours come to the fore – soft shiny tones from beige to pink and apricot (so called non-colours) represent the trend of return and the search for the future.

The beginnings

1883 is the year in which lipstick was officially born: Perfumers from Paris presented a lipstick wrapped in paper made out of tallow, wax and coloured castor oil in 1883 at the World Fair in Amsterdam. The paper had to be peeled back in strips every time the lipstick was to be used. Its complicated application and expensive price tag conspired to make this first model a flop. Indeed, at todays prices this lipstick would have cost around 50 euros. In addition to this, sensual red lips were regarded unseemly among high society: Back then only ladies of the night, clowns and actors would use "Stylo dAmour" to colour their lips. This frivolous and fitting term of endearment for the “stick of love” was given to it by the actress Sarah Bernhardt.